There are a number of things which should be checked beforehand when considering ordering a SineTamer suppression device for your home of office. 

The most important factor in deciding whether or not to order a SineTamer unit for a residential home is the health benefit of removing the harmful kHz to MHz frequencies which are induced into your home from all the individual Smart Meters switch mode power supplies on the homes immediate transformer grid. This task is paramount for making the homes electrical wiring free and clear of the harmful kHz to MHz frequencies associated with the Smart Meter grid. 

If higher EMF readings are apparent within the home in various rooms or spots within the home, then careful consideration must be given by someone qualified to carry out proper testing to find the problem circuits and faulty electrical connections or lack of proper grounds and neutral connections. Its important to note that these issues or problems can be identified and repaired by qualified people carrying out these types of services. 

In order to make sure the SineTamer will function at its peak ability when installed properly, it is important to 

look at the existing wiring, panels, sub-panels, neutral connections and grounds to make sure the home is wired adequately to begin with. Have an electrician look at the main entering panel, as well as any sub-panels within the structure. 

1. There should be distinctive buss bars for the Neutral wire as well as the Ground wires.
2. The Neutral buss should have all the circuits neutral wires attached to the buss coming back from the individual circuits. There should be no ground wires attached to the neutral buss along with the neutral wires.
3. The Grounding buss should have all the individual ground wires attached to it coming back from all the individual circuits. There should only be ground wires on this buss, no neutrals.
4. The Neutral buss should be isolated and insulated from the main metal electrical panel, but it should be bonded to the main panel by use of a screw supplied or by a wire or cable from the neutral buss to the metal panel itself, thus considered being bonded properly. This bond is not to be confused with making both the neutral and ground buss’s one, but rather to keep them separate and to create a simple grounding path available in case of a ground fault short.
5. Only the main incoming neutral buss should be bonded to the main incoming metal panel, all subsequent sub-panels do not require bonding, only the main incoming panel.
6. Check the grounding lug and the grounding path of the grounding cable. It is desirable presently to have an updated large grounding cable of the same size as the main neutral cable entering into the home from the power provider’s transformer. This practice is being updated by all municipalities in upgrading their electrical safety codes and the homeowner can never go wrong in upgrading his ground wire to the grounding rod or plate with a large ground cable which is much better for the actual grounding of their electrical system. Currently the code calls for #4-6 wire, but tests have shown for that size to be ineffective at removing all the stray currents present on our new systems.
   We recommend a 1/0 wire size for the main grounding cable run outside for grounding for EHS.
7. Check to see if there is a distinctive ground cable run to a grounding rod, rods, or plate outside to the local electrical code, or make sure the ground cable is not run to a water or gas line as was the practice for many years which has since been changed to plastic. By code, anything metal within the home that is able to come into contact with a human, must be grounded back to the grounding system by code, but only to the main incoming panel ground. Although many municipalities still recommend that the mains (Water and Gas) all be grounded properly, there have been many instances of stray ground current entering into the home from the connection to the main water pipe. If this is a problem, then a di-electric coupler is to be installed at the providers entrance off the street to segregate the main water line from the home’s water line.
8. If higher EMF readings are picked up randomly in a homes different areas, then it is usually attributed to miss wired neutrals or grounds in receptacles, plug boxes in the walls, or lighting systems. These conditions can be found with sensitive testing equiment and can be repaired by somebody knowledgeable in repairing conditions like these and the levels can be brought down to a safe level for the inhabitants. Care must be taken when finding these sources and these higher EMF levels should not be confused with the RF levels entering into the home from the Smart Meter grid. These are two completely different entities and this type of RF on the power lines that make up DE or Dirty Power require a battery or independent power supply oscilloscope to accurately measure these values. Meters that plug into receptacles are not capable of supplying accurate readings for someone testing for these frequencies or their levels without giving off erroneous values, as they utilize the same power to be tested as the supply power for the meter. Many building biologists utilize these special scopes for testing DE and it is the only true way of testing for these anomalies present on our power systems. 

NOTE: 

It is very important to view all this criteria before ordering the SineTamer unit as there can be many variations of wiring practices that could be detrimental to the proper functioning of the SineTamer suppression unit. 

Many wiring termination points and improper bonding can greatly affect the high EMF levels observed throughout the home or building, and should be identified and repaired accordingly if the residents are EHS sensitive. 

Cratus Canada Ltd. 

Cratus America Inc. 

PowerEmt.com